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Showing posts with label Style. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Style. Show all posts

Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Book release: The A to Z of Mod

The A to Z of Mod is the new book by mod luminaries Paolo Hewitt and Mark Baxter. Shindig! joined the launch party in London's Covent Garden, at the Fred Perry store (where else?!).


On hand were both authors, though sadly I didn't spot foreword writer and now Hollywood superstar Martin Freeman in attendance. Most of the London ace faces were there to congratulate the pair, including fellow author Terry Rawlings, and BBC Radio DJ Gary Crowley. Modern mod legends Dave Edwards and Smiler were behind the decks to provide a suitably mod soundtrack  to our early summer's evening, and what a convivial atmosphere ensured.

As for the book, well it's like a bible for the evergreen youth cult that matured into a way of life. From Absolute Beginners to Zoot Money, they explore the sartorial, societal, and cultural aspects of Modernism from the late 50s through to today. London clubs, Lambrettas, cigarettes, speed, trim suits, sunglasses and loafers - they are all there. A range of colourful illustrations help bring the mod style to life. A solid purchase for all '60s heads of all persuasions.

Smart Phil

The A to Z of Mod on Amazon

Monday, 14 November 2011

Style – Art Gallery Clothing

London Clothing Label Art Gallery's new online shop goes live

Stylish Modernism For The 21st Century



ART GALLERY'S ONLINE SHOP GOES LIVE
News story for style and music magazines, websites and blogs
Art Gallery Clothing's Alex Banks is pleased to announce the launch of online shop www.artgalleryclothing.co.uk. "It's looking great," he smiles, "and really sums up what the new line of clothes are all about. The early ’60s / late ’50s feel of Soho and Absolute Beginners is most certainly apparent in the Winter Collection, but that's not to say all of our lines will purely represent modernism. Who knows, the spring or summer ranges may have elements of sharp punk attire, or something else entirely. We look to the future with elements of the past. We're not stuck in it!"

The Italiente lines and patterns of the 2012 knitwear range indeed recall a pre-Swinging London, when American GIs rubbed shoulders with young Stylists, well versed in R&B music. This period marked the first wave of a rapidly changing, consumerist society stoked on fashion. The time when a brand new, clean cut look – that mirrored both European cinema and the impeccable cool of Blue Note jazz – was starting to take hold on the hippest members of London night life.

          


Monday, 3 October 2011

Style – The Ipcress Mod File

YVONNE MCKEOWN talks collars and sleeves with SATOSHI ABE, the most fab gear shirt designer in the Shindigverse!



Shindig!: Greetings from Shindig! UK! How is Japan this time of year?

Satoshi Abe: Greetings from Swinging Tokyo! In Japan it is the season we feel cool wind in the evening. It’s the end of summer. Summer in Japan is not a good season to enjoy fashion, because of the high temperature and humidity it's almost subtropical. We only enjoy T-shirt’s and blue jeans. We are happy coming of autumn as a best season of food and enjoying fashion.

SD: Introduce yourself to all the Shindiggers!

SA: I’m Satoshi Abe. The designer and owner of The Ipcress Mod File. Now I manage two ’60s style shirt brands in Tokyo and I have started The Ipcress Lounge. I like a Victorian style pub in front of The Toyyo Skytree in Sumida. I drink Spitfire which is a traditional English pale ale in Tokyo, which has given me inspiration for The Ipcress Spitfire range of sharp dressed shoes as the next challenge.

I have just sold off a 1964 1800s Volvo coupe. It is my dream to own a Triumph Spitfire.

SD: What is the mod scene like in Japan?

SA: I don’t go to there now. I’m very busy and I work at The Ipcress Lounge with cocktail shaker to midnight every weekend, but The Action is scooter mod team that comes to The Ipcress Lounge at weekends. A member of Les Cuppcinno is one of my friends and I like their sound. I invite this band in to my party every time!
I organised some big modparties in Tokyo called The Ipcress Good Guys about five years ago. Three hundred to 500 more mods gathered out of all over the Japan in those days, but I hear it is getting smaller now.

SD: You’ve said you’re going to be starting a blog like your friend Sweet Jane in the near future. It’s an interesting read, particularly the entry on Hapshash & The Coloured Coat and their mind-bending visual creations. Have you tried to incorporate that vibrancy into your own apparel?

SA: Yes, they influenced to my work greatly. Especially Nigel Waymouth’s jacket with the Chrysanthemum flower print by William Morris – it blew my mind! I don’t have the courage to coordinate looks like this gorgeous jacket, but I usually take inspiration from Morris’s artwork into my shirts. I love their style and atmosphere very much.

SD: Speaking of which, you have a brand new collection of ’60s style shirt replicas – and judging by the whispers of excitement around camp, it seems they're going to be flying off the shelves.

SA: The new shirts are the Carnaby Rock Hunter range. They have a sharp pointed B.D.collar and Fraped B.D pocket and the Mr Plonk line is a long pointed rabbit collar and double button. Both designs are made as a one-off or as a very limited edition – just like vintage rarities.
I think that it’s very important to promise quality and I take my work seriously. I am happy if customers notice my work as incomparable to other brands. I have a special attachment and pride and love being
supported by core minority fans!



SD: You mentioned the use of William Morris artworks, but you also use paisley and other flamboyant designs. How do you source the fabrics and patterns?

SA: I use special fabrics selected from all over the world. I like ’60s images and patterns especially collecting fabric like William Morris, Arabethque, paisely and polka dots... The patterns are directly reference to a lot of real vintage mod shirts from Europe but I add my own individual tailoring details into the shirts.

SD: Do you make the shirts yourself? Where and when did you learn your skill?

SA: I used to make a lot of shirts in the past, I learned to make the shirts at Bunka Fashion College, but now I make my shirts with five craftsman in Tokyo. I am mainly performing supply, design, and plan of cloth now. With the craftsman's cooperation the brand is realised.

SD: Who did you use as your key influences?

SA: It’s Mr. Milton Astley from Putney. I met him and his mate in ’94 at The 100 Club in London enjoying The Chords gig and clubbing. I was an art school student and studying about mod fashion. He is a great ’60s vintage collector. He told me about Levi’s, John Smedley, Tonic Suit, Harry Palmer and George Best.

Now he is on Facebook and sends me a lot of pictures about the mod scene in London and is a great reference about real casual mod fashion. Memories of him and his mate don’t fade. He’s a great person. He’ll be surprised when he hears this!

SD: There're lots of celebrities and scene darlings wearing your clobber already – who has been you most notable customer?

SA: It’s Mr. Craig Dishington! He is the deejey of The Eyes Wide Open club in Scotland. He will soon play lots of great records at The Double Sight weekender in Glasgow. At the moment I am just making his new rabbit collar shirt. He’s bought a few of my designs.

SD: If there was one ’60s icon you could make wear your shirts, who would it be?

SA: It’s very difficult question! I want to say David Bowie, Mick Jagger, Brian Jones, Geogie Fame, Steve Marriott, Steve Winwood…But if I must choose three people, it would be Ronnie Lane, George Best and Michael Caine.

SD: If anyone is interested in making an order or seeing your creations – where do they go?

SA: If you have a chance to come sightseeing in Japan, please come in The Ipcress Lounge. It is my showroom with Victorian style pub. There are a lot of my shirts and fabrics. And you can also enjoy drinking Spitfire or a lot of cocktails and fish & chips! It is becoming a hot modern nightspot in Tokyo.




And if you live in Europe can access tmy website. If you like my shirts please send an email. I will start an online shopping page soon. Please also check out The Ipcress Mod File Facebook fanpage.
Finally, as you know, although Japan was hit by serious Tsunami and suffering a calamity, it obtains great support and cooperation from every country in the world, and is trying to regain a usual life little by little. Thank you very much for the interview!

SD: If you had to sum up your boutique in three words, what would they be?

SA: Fabulous, Swingin’, Unique.

Saturday, 6 August 2011

Style - Roll up! Roll Up! A Circo of hippie delight





Excess, glamour and free love. Welcome to the CIRCUS! The online shop, based in Spain, channels the haze of Haight Ashbury, the good vibrations of sunny California, and the freewheelin’ decadence of The GTO’s. Girls want to be them – and judging by the reaction to their catalogue pictures -– men want to be with them. YVONNE McKEOWN went to find out what is setting hearts all in a flutter...

Shindig!: Firstly, can Shindig! say you ladies have got some serious style… Were you all friends before starting your shop?

Mery: Firstly, thank you for

the compliment! Yes, we were friends before we launched Circus – we’ve known each other since we were teenagers and have shared many experiences over the years. We’re great friends as well as business partners.

SD: Who are the ringleaders of the Circus Shop?

M: The ringmasters behind Circus are Mery and Sol. We’re a pair of reformed city rats. We were both living and working in Madrid, and just grew sick of city life. Sol is an artist, really skilled at painting and expressing herself through hand-drawn visuals and photography. I (Mery) have always had a knack for aesthetic surround, like interiors, and how different textures, prints and items work together. Independently, we headed to southeast Spain, to the Mediterranean coast. We picked up where we left off in our new rural lives. These days, we only live down the road from one another.

SD: Your shop has a distinct early ‘70s West Coast bohemian influence, with lots of bold floral and paisley prints and floaty materials. Do you fancy yourself as a bit of a freewheelin’ flower child? What are your loves about ‘60s/70s?

M: We live our lives according to the gospel of freewheelin’ and flowers. It’s funny, in our collection we have suede waistcoats, which is a difficult word to say in Spanish – we always say "west coasts" by accident... West Coast Pop Art Experimental Band, you know… Our roots are totally in that sort of bohemian San Fran / Swinging London epoch. It was such a creative, explosive time in history. I (Sol) spent some time in California and Mery lived in London for a while. More than anything it’s the music, the abundant creativity and the vivid aesthetic of that time that we love because it feeds all the senses. All of the designs in our latest collection are named after some of our favourite records – De Ja Vu, Harvest, Hunky Dory, Pearl, Ooh La La

SD: What do you love the most about these materials and patterns? Why are they so feminine and timeless?

M: We look for the magic and really enjoy the creative process of designing – from discussing our initial ideas to trying out prototypes, modifying and then choosing delicious prints and fabrics. Our latest collection has a lot of chiffon, which is beautifully feminine. Our accessories are versatile, so you can wear a big length of bronze around your neck coupled with one of our waistcoats with a modern style of jeans and look both on trend or retrospective. We keep our designs quite simple, nothing over-complicated, which is perhaps why they’re quite timeless.

SD: You make all the clothes yourself… That’s an awful lot of sewing! Is it hard work having your own boutique?

M: We don’t sew all the clothes ourselves. We design them and choose the fabrics. Every year, we go to India, to a small town in Rajasthan. Here, we work with a select group of tailors who we’ve known and worked with for the last seven years. They’re like family to us now! They help us modify our designs if they need it and make suggestions as to how the cuts will work better or… They have a lot of input into our work, and not just practically speaking. Just being in India and around our friends there gets the creative juices flowing, the magic, the ambience, and it’s this we take a lot of inspiration from. It’s like cooking: the recipe doesn’t just depend on the main ingredients, it’s the subtle or the surprise flavours that make it taste good! Of course, you have to work hard to make anything work, but you can enjoy it at the same time. For us, this is the creative process, from start – the whole inception of each new collection – to finish, when you pack up for the day after a day’s work behind the counter.

SD: Finding original ‘60s treasures can be like finding a needle in a haystack for women (and men). Circus is accessible and affordable. Were these your reasons for starting Circus?

M: Yes and no. The "no" is that about 10 years ago, we were driving to Morocco, which at the time was where we collected and bought up exotic pieces to sell back in Spain. We ran our own businesses then but got talking in the van on the way there about how we should do something together and, given that we both had a similar love and style of clothes, decided it was time we joined forces. Mainly, it was a way to fully express our creativity combined with our love of wearable aesthetic.

The "yes" is that here in Spain, you can still pick up amazing items of vintage or unique clothing in the weekly markets for a couple of Euros. Very often, people will ask where we got this waistcoat or that blouse or those jeans. Although they’re not necessarily expensive, they are one-offs. Our friends, and sometimes complete strangers, would covet certain items so much, we recognised that we should make designs that reflect that sort of vintage in Circus. And we do.

SD: You also make jewellery, which channels Egyptian, Aztec and tribal styles – how do you create your designs?

M: Our jewellery is primarily bronze and ceramic. All of it echoes original Indian Naga tribe designs. We’re responsible for the designs as you see them although, yes, the Naga is a big influence, as is all our time in India and other places. We were so drawn to the Naga that we sometimes joke we have past lives there. Just like Sol was told by one Indian guru that she was an Egyptian sphinx in a previous life. So, Egyptian too? Maybe…

SD: If you had to describe Circus in three words, what would they be?

M: Rock, Love & Roll.










You can find the girls and their fine wares on Facebook.

Friday, 1 July 2011

Style - Forest Elf... Biba, Pastoral Patterns and Nature

Yvonne McKeown goes down to the woods to meet Em

Happening:
Who and what is Forest Elf?

F
orest Elf:
Forest Elf is me! It’s a nickname I have had and thought it would be a great and unique name to use for my textiles and vintage business. I started off making home accessories like cushions. I love bold colourful prints and putting different ones, including vintage fabric together. I will be soon selling vintage clothing and my own line of vintage style clothing.

H: You love strong textile patterns like Ossie Clark – was he an influence from the start?

FE: He is definitely one of many influences yes. I am very much inspired by bold ’60s and ’70s prints. I also love art deco and nouveau which were also influences in the ’60s.

H: Who is your all time ’60s fashion icon? Why?

FE: That’s a hard one. I don’t really have one. I would say my two favourite designers were Barbara Hulanicki and Ossie Clark. There were so many beautiful and well dressed women in the ’60s. Jean Shrimpton and Brigitte Bardot being two of my favourite.

H: How has ’60s fashion influenced your boutique?

FE: Boutiques are very much a ’60s thing – it’s where it started. The late ’60s was all about colour, psychedelia and flower power. I would say I am a hippy at heart and am hugely into nature – my other passion being wildlife photography.

H: When did you discover you had a talent for textiles and an eye for a vintage wonder?

FE: I started collecting vintage clothing about 10 years ago. Mainly ’60s stuff. I got involved in the ’60s scene and loved it! I felt it was where I really belonged and would say I was born at the wrong time. Since I was a little girl I loved dressing up and loved going to fancy dress parties and making my own outfits. I was such a perfectionist as a child and had to colour coordinate everything I wore.

H: What is the concept of your new Boutique? How was it born?

FE: I have always wanted a boutique. I never thought I’d get one though with a lot being online now and thought it was so sad that so many lovely little independent shops were disappearing. It’s a dream come true to be having one. I live in a very unique and quirky place and am lucky for this shop space to have come up. It means I can expand and do what I love most and that’s vintage clothing. The boutique will be my workshop too. I want it to be the sort of place someone can come in and hang out if they wanted too. Make them a cupa tea and chat.

H: You're a breast cancer survivor, how did overcoming that give you the determination and motivation to follow your dreams and start Forest Elf?

FE: For about the last 10 years I had been very unsettled. I never really had the confidence to go and do what I really wanted to do. Having cancer was a kick up the arse for me. It was a bad time but I got some really positive stuff out of it. I started a fashion and costume design course when I finished my treatment and after making all my family and friends their Xmas presents they said I’d be mad not to start something up. This really motivated me to start the boutique and I’m so happy I did. I think life’s too short to be unhappy. I’m not money motivated and would rather love what I do, and not earn big bucks, than the other way round.

H: Where would you like to see yourself and Forest Elf in the coming years?

FE: I would love Forest Elf to be at lots of festivals and also for the boutique to expand. I love what Barbara Hulanicki did with Biba when she expanded. I’ve always wanted a vintage shop with a little hang out area where people could sit and drink and listen to vinyl.

Forest Elf Site

THE BOUTIQUE
Location:
Stable yard.
Main street
Cotesbach
Luuterworth
Leicestershire
LE17 4HX

Hours:
Mon - Fri: 10.30AM - 5PM
Sat: 10AM - 5PM
Sun: Closed